Authentic Ecotourism Destinations: Southern Mexico

What is it that makes a trip great for a tourist who enjoys culture and adventure?

Adventure tourism opportunities, like visiting amazing waterfalls or mountain biking through jungle or through mountain villages…combined with cultural experiences such as visiting Mayan architectural sites, trying new, unique foods (like fried grasshoppers), and even witnessing and participating in peaceful human rights protests – or learning about the Zapatista movement from the revolutionaries themselves….that’s my idea of adventure + culture. And unlike most Americans’ most cultural vacation experience – you won’t get “It’s a small world” stuck in your head

Welcome to Southern Mexico. If you’ve only visited border towns to the north, or perhaps a resort city like Cancun or Mazatlan, you’re in for a treat. The real Mexico awaits in these destinations, as I discovered on my recent roadtrip through this amazing (and very large) country.

Chiapas, Mexico
Chiapas, once part of Guatemala, and still very much part of the El Mundo Maya (the Mayan World), maintains an amazing aura of culture and adventure. Its recent history may seem shaky, according to the western mass media, but tourists who venture to this part of Mexico are duly rewarded – with pristine landscapes, amazing cultural experiences, and warm hospitality.

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas
Take, San Cristobal de las Casas for example. I heard it was a cool place, but this ended up being one of the nicest cities I’ve ever visited. (Yes, you heard me right.) Culture + music + nightlife + ecotourism activities + Mayan ruins nearby + very little crime = very cool, and it beats the hell out of Sr. Frogs in Cancun. Just don’t attempt to roll through for a day, like I tried to do. (I ended up staying for 3 – a very difficult departure.) Try staying for a week – or even a month if time permits. One of the nicest vibes in Mexico or Central America, the cobblestone city center is surrounded by historic cathedrals, plazas, pedestrian walkways, inexpensive trendy bars and restaurants and there’s even a peaceful Zapatista encampment in the main plaza of the cathedral. Daytrips to Pelenque and the amazing waterfalls of Aguas Azules and Misol Ha are easily arranged, as is trekking and mountain biking in the surrounding mountains. You can even buy a beautiful wool jacket directly from Mayan families and craftsmen in the parks, perfect for the chilly, high altitude nights.

Tips: Bring or rent a mountain bike, which is easily the most efficient way to get around town – narrow, cobblestone streets, and arrange a tour through one of several operators advertised at the many hotels and hostels throughout town. I’m happy to recommend El Gite del Sol for nice, affordable accommodation that includes breakfast and wifi. The owners were friendly and helpful.

Barra de Nexpa & the Michocan Coast
It’s safe to say that Barra de Nexpa is my own personal Eden. After two visits, the first completely accidental (after driving all day and through part of the night along the coast from Puerto Vallarta), I realized that Nexpa has all the ingredients for a surfers’ paradise. It’s pretty isolated, most easily directly reached by flying into Zijuatenejo/Ixtapa, a few hours to the south, but there really are no other cities nearby. It’s also beautiful, surrounded by tropical jungle, clean, has extremely low crime, but has enough lodging spots – from $3 camping on the beach to very affordable private cabinas.

Nexpa has an air of mystique as well. Sea turtles are drawn to nest here, and the waves make a magical sound as the powerful current slams onto the steep grey beach, dragging pebbles with each crash. Speaking of waves: perfect swells break along a huge, consistent point, capable of holding 50 surfers easily – shortboards on the steep (and sometimes hollow) inside peaks, and longboarders and beginners outside. Most other spots were flat when I arrived, and I scored several consistent rides of over 100 meters – with no vibes from the locals or regulars. Here’s a YouTube clip of Nexpa “going off.”

Nexpa is so special that I considered not covering this spot in my blog, but then remembered all of the small restaurants and lodging properties that could use the business – and the fact that you REALLY NEED TO WANT to get there. There are also some other great options along the gorgeous Michocan Coast, like Playa Ticla, Troncones, and a number of other ecotourism sites, small communities and turtle conservation areas.

Check with SEETurtles.com if you’re interested in volunteering or learning more about turtle habitats. (And if you have a dog or are on the beach during nesting season, please KEEP THE DOGS AWAY FROM TURTLE NESTS – large mounds of sand on the beach). I saw several that had been dug up by the patrolling pack of K-9s. I also want to note that caution should be taken while driving in this area. According to a local restaurateur, the coastal resorts are safe and “muy tranquilo” but the hills and backcountry regions in this area, including the Guerrero coast (especially near Acapulco) is really guerrilla territory and is one of the focal points in Mexico’s “war on drugs.” I was urged not to attempt a ride on my mountain bike, which I obliged.

Tips: The turnoff for Nexpa is easy, just north of the the bridge (Puente Nexpa) along the Mexico 200. Head down the bumpy road and reach paradise less than a mile later.

Oaxaca
You could write a book on Oaxaca. In fact there are several, some covering topics as narrow as just the trees! I’m not going to really cover Oaxaca in any detail here, as there are abundant resources on the topic. I will however, share just a few recommendations for this very vibrant city. For one, you gotta drink some mezcal – even if you hate it. You can then wash it down with something you’re sure to love – pure Oaxacan hot chocolate – available everywhere and for purchase and home preparation at the larger markets. I had a great time in Oaxaca cruising around on my mountain bike. Touring the markets is a great day, even if you’re just looking and taking photos.

But active involvement is more fun. I tried the chapulines (fried grasshoppers) but Ron Mader (of Planeta.com) says, “You gotta try them with a family, fresh made and crispy….and novices are better off sticking to the small ones!” Looking for a different kind of experience? I always am, and I even participated in a large human rights protest in Oaxaca! (The indigenous people in many parts of Mexico have been slighted well…forever, but pride is abundant and they seem to be making progress – so support them with your tourist dollars, and rest assured, all is tranquilo here despite the proud energy – and I never once felt the threat of violence.)

There are also fabulous ecotourism activities nearby, including community-run programs that take you on guided hikes or bike rides of villages and mountain trails. You can even ride single track most of the way to Puerto Escondido with a Mexican Olympian, or stay closer and visit the Toltec & Aztec site of Monte Alban, overlooking the entire city. For a lot more things to do and see, including events, tours and markets in Oaxaca, visit Planeta.com. I was fortunate enough to tour around a bit with Ron Mader, Planeta’s editor and founder. He’s been involved in ecotourism activities in Oaxaca for many years, and the catalog of photos, videos and information on Planeta’s community-run “wiki-website” are astounding.

Nearby Oaxaca, Tule boasts the largest tree in the world (width-wise), and some very cool craft markets. A few more kilometers down the road is Teotitlan, where I visited the Mendoza family in their traditional weaving village. I was fortunate enough to get a quick lesson in preparing, dying and spinning raw wool into rugs and textiles. Thanks to a rebirth of traditional techniques and dyes, there are an abundance of opportunities to view, learn about and purchase items directly from the craftspeople.

Above: The author takes a weaving lesson with the Mendoza family in Teotitlan.

Mexico is filled with authentic destinations for sustainable, cultural and adventure tourism. Get off the beaten path of Mexico’s main resorts, and rub elbows with the real people. You just might learn something – and have a lot of fun in the process. But please remember to tread lightly, and vote with your dollars.