What is it that makes a trip great for a tourist who enjoys culture and adventure?

Adventure tourism opportunities, like visiting amazing waterfalls or mountain biking through jungle or through mountain villages…combined with cultural experiences such as visiting Mayan architectural sites, trying new, unique foods (like fried grasshoppers), and even witnessing and participating in peaceful human rights protests – or learning about the Zapatista movement from the revolutionaries themselves….that’s my idea of adventure + culture. And unlike most Americans’ most cultural vacation experience – you won’t get “It’s a small world” stuck in your head

Welcome to Southern Mexico. If you’ve only visited border towns to the north, or perhaps a resort city like Cancun or Mazatlan, you’re in for a treat. The real Mexico awaits in these destinations, as I discovered on my recent roadtrip through this amazing (and very large) country.

Chiapas, Mexico
Chiapas, once part of Guatemala, and still very much part of the El Mundo Maya (the Mayan World), maintains an amazing aura of culture and adventure. Its recent history may seem shaky, according to the western mass media, but tourists who venture to this part of Mexico are duly rewarded – with pristine landscapes, amazing cultural experiences, and warm hospitality.

A view from above the high castillo in Pelenque Mayan site, Chiapas Mexico

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas
Take, San Cristobal de las Casas for example. I heard it was a cool place, but this ended up being one of the nicest cities I’ve ever visited. (Yes, you heard me right.) Culture + music + nightlife + ecotourism activities + Mayan ruins nearby + very little crime = very cool, and it beats the hell out of Sr. Frogs in Cancun. Just don’t attempt to roll through for a day, like I tried to do. (I ended up staying for 3 – a very difficult departure.) Try staying for a week – or even a month if time permits. One of the nicest vibes in Mexico or Central America, the cobblestone city center is surrounded by historic cathedrals, plazas, pedestrian walkways, inexpensive trendy bars and restaurants and there’s even a peaceful Zapatista encampment in the main plaza of the cathedral. Daytrips to Pelenque and the amazing waterfalls of Aguas Azules and Misol Ha are easily arranged, as is trekking and mountain biking in the surrounding mountains. You can even buy a beautiful wool jacket directly from Mayan families and craftsmen in the parks, perfect for the chilly, high altitude nights.

San Cristobal's Cathedral is the main place to hang out for sunset

Tips: Bring or rent a mountain bike, which is easily the most efficient way to get around town – narrow, cobblestone streets, and arrange a tour through one of several operators advertised at the many hotels and hostels throughout town. I’m happy to recommend El Gite del Sol for nice, affordable accommodation that includes breakfast and wifi. The owners were friendly and helpful.

A Mayan girl relaxes on the steps of the Cathedral, San Cristobal de las casas, Chiapas Mexico

Barra de Nexpa & the Michocan Coast
It’s safe to say that Barra de Nexpa is my own personal Eden. After two visits, the first completely accidental (after driving all day and through part of the night along the coast from Puerto Vallarta), I realized that Nexpa has all the ingredients for a surfers’ paradise. It’s pretty isolated, most easily directly reached by flying into Zijuatenejo/Ixtapa, a few hours to the south, but there really are no other cities nearby. It’s also beautiful, surrounded by tropical jungle, clean, has extremely low crime, but has enough lodging spots – from $3 camping on the beach to very affordable private cabinas.

Enjoying a cold cerveza after surfing as the sun sets on Barra de Nexpa

Nexpa has an air of mystique as well. Sea turtles are drawn to nest here, and the waves make a magical sound as the powerful current slams onto the steep grey beach, dragging pebbles with each crash. Speaking of waves: perfect swells break along a huge, consistent point, capable of holding 50 surfers easily – shortboards on the steep (and sometimes hollow) inside peaks, and longboarders and beginners outside. Most other spots were flat when I arrived, and I scored several consistent rides of over 100 meters – with no vibes from the locals or regulars. Here’s a YouTube clip of Nexpa “going off.”

Nexpa is so special that I considered not covering this spot in my blog, but then remembered all of the small restaurants and lodging properties that could use the business – and the fact that you REALLY NEED TO WANT to get there. There are also some other great options along the gorgeous Michocan Coast, like Playa Ticla, Troncones, and a number of other ecotourism sites, small communities and turtle conservation areas.

Somewhere along Mexico's Michocan coast

Check with SEETurtles.com if you’re interested in volunteering or learning more about turtle habitats. (And if you have a dog or are on the beach during nesting season, please KEEP THE DOGS AWAY FROM TURTLE NESTS – large mounds of sand on the beach). I saw several that had been dug up by the patrolling pack of K-9s. I also want to note that caution should be taken while driving in this area. According to a local restaurateur, the coastal resorts are safe and “muy tranquilo” but the hills and backcountry regions in this area, including the Guerrero coast (especially near Acapulco) is really guerrilla territory and is one of the focal points in Mexico’s “war on drugs.” I was urged not to attempt a ride on my mountain bike, which I obliged.

Tips: The turnoff for Nexpa is easy, just north of the the bridge (Puente Nexpa) along the Mexico 200. Head down the bumpy road and reach paradise less than a mile later.

Oaxaca
You could write a book on Oaxaca. In fact there are several, some covering topics as narrow as just the trees! I’m not going to really cover Oaxaca in any detail here, as there are abundant resources on the topic. I will however, share just a few recommendations for this very vibrant city. For one, you gotta drink some mezcal – even if you hate it. You can then wash it down with something you’re sure to love – pure Oaxacan hot chocolate – available everywhere and for purchase and home preparation at the larger markets. I had a great time in Oaxaca cruising around on my mountain bike. Touring the markets is a great day, even if you’re just looking and taking photos.

Political graffiti is everpresent in Oaxaca

But active involvement is more fun. I tried the chapulines (fried grasshoppers) but Ron Mader (of Planeta.com) says, “You gotta try them with a family, fresh made and crispy….and novices are better off sticking to the small ones!” Looking for a different kind of experience? I always am, and I even participated in a large human rights protest in Oaxaca! (The indigenous people in many parts of Mexico have been slighted well…forever, but pride is abundant and they seem to be making progress – so support them with your tourist dollars, and rest assured, all is tranquilo here despite the proud energy – and I never once felt the threat of violence.)

The vital ingredient of Oaxaca's Mezcal - blue agave

There are also fabulous ecotourism activities nearby, including community-run programs that take you on guided hikes or bike rides of villages and mountain trails. You can even ride single track most of the way to Puerto Escondido with a Mexican Olympian, or stay closer and visit the Toltec & Aztec site of Monte Alban, overlooking the entire city. For a lot more things to do and see, including events, tours and markets in Oaxaca, visit Planeta.com. I was fortunate enough to tour around a bit with Ron Mader, Planeta’s editor and founder. He’s been involved in ecotourism activities in Oaxaca for many years, and the catalog of photos, videos and information on Planeta’s community-run “wiki-website” are astounding.

Self portrait in front of Tule's mammoth tree, said to be the world's widest

Nearby Oaxaca, Tule boasts the largest tree in the world (width-wise), and some very cool craft markets. A few more kilometers down the road is Teotitlan, where I visited the Mendoza family in their traditional weaving village. I was fortunate enough to get a quick lesson in preparing, dying and spinning raw wool into rugs and textiles. Thanks to a rebirth of traditional techniques and dyes, there are an abundance of opportunities to view, learn about and purchase items directly from the craftspeople.

Learning about natural wool dyes and spinning with the Mendoza family, Teotitlan Mexico

Above: The author takes a weaving lesson with the Mendoza family in Teotitlan.

Mexico is filled with authentic destinations for sustainable, cultural and adventure tourism. Get off the beaten path of Mexico’s main resorts, and rub elbows with the real people. You just might learn something – and have a lot of fun in the process. But please remember to tread lightly, and vote with your dollars.

My first destination in Belize was the International Conference on Responsible Tourism (ICRBelize.org) in Belmopan, Belize, a mere 5 day drive from Lake Tahoe, which I’ll cover in a different post. From there, I set off to the “wild south.” In Belize, a nation about the size of Massachusetts with a population of only around 300,000, the further south you go means the landscape becomes more rugged, the towns more rural and the opportunities to see pristine nature and culture more abundant.

Punta Gorda is pretty much “the end of the road” as far as Belize is concerned. Those heading to Guatemala, Honduras and destinations to the south will need to hope a once-a-day boat, and there are no (legal) ways to drive south from there. Not surprisingly, it’s also one of the best places in Central America to experience nature (jungles, islands or the World’s 2nd largest barrier reef) and culture (Garifuna, Creole or Mayan).

After a quick stop to meet up with Karel Kuran in the TIDES Tours office (Toledo Institute for Development and Environment, a non-profit based in Punta Gorda), we loaded into the Subaru and headed into the Mayan Mountains with our guide Agapito for an amazing adventure: waterfalls, traditional Mayan villages, a cacao tour and the ruins of Lubaantun, controversial discovery site of the famed “crystal scull”.

Family shows off handmade baskets after dinner, Toledo Belize

After about a 40 minute drive into the hills and through San Antonio, the largest of the Mayan Villages in Toledo District, we arrived at San Antonio waterfalls. A beautiful swimming area filled with grinding stones and evidence of large scale Mayan occupation, you could feel the energy in the area. It was a great place to cool off and relax, or to jump off of rocks into the refreshing water. (Careful though – very slippery!)

From San Antonio, we made quick tracks further into the mountains of Southern Belize, reaching San Jose village just before sunset. We were greeted with lots of smiling children and some of the men who would arrange activities for later in the evening. We then headed out for a quick tour of the village with one of the elder women and her granddaughter. The houses were made of wood and traditional palm thatched roofs and the villagers smiled and waved – or simply stared – as we circled through the ½ mile loop dirt road. We weren’t the first visitors, but you could tell it wasn’t an everyday thing.

This was my breakfast in San Jose, Belize

[Historic side note: This area of Belize is experiencing a rebirth of traditional Maya culture. Although these lands were inhabited by Mayan Empire for thousands of years, many areas of Belize were deserted after the collapse of some Mayan city-states and the arrival of the Spanish and European explorers. Most fled deep into the mountains and jungles of Guatemala, where they were able to live in isolation or fight off the Spanish for many years. During the many Central American conflicts of recent decades, an abundance of indigenous people, many persecuted war refugees from Guatemala, Honduras or El Salvador, returned to the safety of Belize, a colony of England until 1980.]

Returning to the guest lodge, a rustic building very similar to the other houses in San Jose Village, the participants were split and went with a different families to eat with them in their homes. Talk about cultural immersion! I ate with a family of 5; mom and dad, 2 girls and a little boy. Only the father, Juan, spoke a little English (most people spoke only Mopan Maya and some English – being Belize – the only English speaking country of Central America). We ate rice and beans with corn tortillas and warm tea. Then the mother and daughter brought out some beautiful hand-woven baskets with brightly colored thread designs. The food was delicious , warm and rich like the hospitality. Juan (age 42 but looking 25) and I sat and chatted for a bit about work, play and the way of life in the village. The men typically worked the fields (corn, beans or cacao), sometimes a one or two hour walk or mountain bike ride down rough roads or paths, while the women would prepare meals, grind maize for tortillas – the main food staple, take care of the home and animals and keep the family clothed, clean and well-fed. I purchased a few of the handmade baskets and headed back the guest lodge for the eventing activity: storytelling. Other options also including singing and dancing, Mayan lessons, and specially arranged meals and ceremonies for larger groups.

In a room adjacent to the sleeping quarters, a few of the men gathered with the visitors and our guide Agapito for the storytelling session. We were told a traditional Mayan tale which had been passed on verbally for many generations, and then had some time to ask questions. The story was then repeated in Mopan Mayan. Hearing the Mayan language spoken fluently is a beautiful thing, to me sounding much more like an Asian or Siberian dialect than the more common European languages. Truly a magical experience!

The next morning, I woke with the sun, around 5am, and hopped on my mountain bike. I had heard the road, impassable without a jeep, continued straight all the way to Guatemala, and the villages became smaller and more remote – just my thing. The 30 minute stretch before the next village – Santa Cruz – was majestic….miles of thick forest and rugged mountains, as the sun shone over the peaks and through the morning clouds for the first light of the day. I passed farmworkers already beginning their days, lunches and tools packed over their shoulders. The green jungle was only interrupted by small patches of maize, the Mayan lifeblood.

Upon reaching Santa Cruz, children stood on doorsteps and moms prepared breakfast tortillas. Everyone stared at the crazy gringo on the silver Jamis mountain bike with big tires and shocks – a perfect tool for these parts of the world. I chatted with one family, who offered to have me over for breakfast. I politely declined and offered a couple of dollars to go towards the kids’ schoolbooks. I was going to be late for my breakfast back in San Jose!

I pedaled hard back up the hills I had bombed on the way to Santa Cruz, making my way back to the village just in time to greet 2 beautiful little girls – 7 and 3, and followed them to their home for a delicious breakfast of fried jacks (like fried dough but less greasy), beans and hot sweet tea. Yum! I took a few pictures with the family (always ask because some villagers prefer to not be photographed) and strolled back the guest lodge to prepare for our final activities of the tour: Lubaantun and the Cacao.

I ate breakfast with this Mayan family in San Jose Village, Toledo, Belize

Lubaantun is a smaller Maya site in comparison to other ruins in Belize, such as Caracol and Lamanai, but is still very much worth the effort. The small but fascinating museum contains many original artifacts from the site, which was likely a major trading area for different parts of the Mayan empire – like Copan (Honduras), Tikal (Guatemala), and other coastal settlements of Belize and Mexico. This may help explain why the famous crystal scull was discovered there. The scull is no longer in Belize, taken to Europe years ago, but there are many photos and replicas in the area of the amazing artifact said to have taken about 300 man years to sculpt from a perfectly clear piece of quartz crystal. However, the artifacts that are there are worth the visit, as is strolling through the ancient hilltop city, surrounded by verdant jungles and filled with temples, trading areas and places of worship and sacrifice. Outside the entrance, handmade clothing and gifts are sold by women from the nearby villages.

In my opinion, this tour saved the best for last. From Lubaantun, we headed down the bumpy road to Eladio Pop’s organic cacao farm, the final stop of the tour and Agapito’s uncle’s place. Eladio greeted us with a smile and a giant machete – the norm for these parts. A small Mayan ball of energy, we were immediately immersed in the tour of his organic farm, which grows cacao, bananas, rice, beens and all sorts of fruits and vegetables – wild harvested and cultivated.

Organic Cacao pods can vary greatly in color

We learned about several varieties of cacao, traditional Mayan rainforest vegetables (and when to harvest them – according to moon cycles) and even learned how to prune and nurture cacao. (Eladio likes to plant a banana tree adjacent to cacao to provide shade, carefully removing weeds, which attempt to choke off the young trees, during his daily walks through the farm.) He showed us his favorite spots to hang out, techniques for sustainably cultivating corn and even how to make tortillas, all before the main event: making chocolate.

More-so than just the amazing knowledge passed on during the tour, Eladio’s passion came across. “Jah [“God”, in Caribbean tongue] provides for me and has blessed me with this amazing productive land, so I want to share it!” he exclaimed. With a big gleam in his eyes, he pulled me close to a very productive cacao tree and whispered his life philosophy, “I take care of my plants, and my plants teach me about life. You see all of the little babies it has?” he asked, motioning to the tiny sprouting pods growing off of the trunk of the young tree. “The cacao plant has many babies, and so do I!” Eladio has a wopping 12 children, aged 30 to one year old, all living at home on the cacao farm, some helping with the tour, some in school, and one in diapers, just learning to walk and talk.

Some of Eladio Pop's "babies": organic cacao pods in Belize

After winding through a mile of perfectly manicured (and loved) trail, we scaled a short but steep hill to a simple shade structure surrounded by mango trees (planted by Eladio over 30 years ago!). This was the site of the fermentation process. Ripe pods are harvested, their seeds removed, and placed into wooden boxes. Each day, the seeds are lovingly turned by hand to ensure equal fermentation, a necessary part of the chocolate-making process. The fruit, which ranges from pale green to red to orange-brown, can also be eaten, raw, but the beans are bitter at this stage. One large wild cacao pod we opened tasted like slightly fermented mango – delicious.

Eladio turns the cacao beans for even fermentation

After several days of fermentation, the seeds are ready to be removed and placed in the sun to dry. Once dried to satisfaction and roasted on hot iron (or a skillet), the seeds are crushed by hand using traditional stone tools. The thin seed husks are removed by tossing the seeds by hand on a large platter, the wind doing its work to naturally carry the unwanted pieces away from the finished, fermented seeds.

Pedro (author) grinds the cacao beans into a chocolate paste

Tossing the crushed and roasted cacao beans removes the husks

Ecomentum hopes to work again with TIES to package this tour, along with other cultural and adventure experiences in Belize and Central America, for responsible tourists worldwide. Contact Peter@ecomentum.com for more information or visit the TIES website for more tour options in Toledo, Belize. Have fun and tread lightly

2009 has certainly been an exciting year around here, Tahoe Paddle Fest in August, the El Dorado County Geotourism Project this summer, and wrapping up the entire year with the Ecotourism roadtrip of a lifetime to Central America from Lake Tahoe, California (with a focus on Cultural, Adventure and Sustainable Tourism for Destinations).

Unfortunately, due to a web hosting mishap, our website was deleted, including 2 years of blog entries. But fortunately, we got lots of new material for you. And now that the Tahoe winter is setting in quickly (it’s 3 degrees and dumping snow as I write this in Meyers – South Lake Tahoe), we’ll have something to do besides drink stiff eggnog while huddled around the fireplace.

Mexico's beautiful Michocan Coast

Over 7 weeks, the Subaru Forester covered some serious ground: Mexico, Belize (Responsible Tourism Conference), Guatemala (Tikal & Chichicastenango’s market), Honduras (Copan Mayan ruins & Gracias colonial country), El Salvador and Nicaragua (honestly, mostly surfing there , and much more. I stayed with Mayan villagers in remote Belize, visited the 2nd largest barrier reef in the world, climbed the Mayan skyscrapers of Tikal, Pelenque, Copan, Caracol & Chichen Itza, went on a tour of an organic chocolate farm and even ate some spicy grasshoppers and participated in a human rights march in Oaxaca. Who says all the action happened in the 60’s?!

Volcano between Tepic and Guadalajara, Mexico

Stay tuned for more as we repopulate this blog and add some new Sustainable Tourism (including Ecotourism, Geotourism, Adventure, Agritourism & Cultural Tourism) resources to the site, along with new blog entries.

Mayan family selling textiles under "the arch" in Antigua, Guatemala

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  ]]> http://ecomentum.com/ecotourism/ecotourism-road-trip-tahoe-to-nicaragua-and-back/feed/ 1 http://ecomentum.com/ecotourism/tom-pohaku-stone-tahoe-paddle-fest-event-blessing/ http://ecomentum.com/ecotourism/tom-pohaku-stone-tahoe-paddle-fest-event-blessing/#comments Mon, 03 Aug 2009 22:32:09 +0000 pgbrumis http://ecomentum.com/?p=41 Tom “Pohaku” Stone @ Tahoe Paddle Fest (Event Opening Blessing)

  In their native tongues, Hawaiian and Washoe, respectively, Tom “Pohaku” Stone (Hawaiian) and Renee Smokey (Washoe & Paiute), ushered in a new age in the Lake Tahoe basin. In a place inhabited by native people for over ten thousand years, there has been scant evidence or recognition of the rich indigenous history in Lake Tahoe.